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Timepieces

Daniel Roth Athys Moon 2134 Watch

daniel roth athys moon 2134 watch
Daniel Roth's most marketable claim to fame for this new Athys Moon 2134 watch is that it will not require any moon phase calendar adjustment for 125 years. That is of course unless you forget the wind the manually-wound movement and then you are out of luck for that whole impressive 125 year number. Though I have a feeling if you are a proud owner of this watch you'll be very happy to wear it (and wind it) often.

What makes the moon phase function in this watch different than those in other moon phase calendar movement based watches? It has to do with the moon phase complication. Instead of the normal gearing that requires a moonphase to be adjusted every few years, that in the Daniel Roth Calibre 2300 (DR2300) movement has a much larger gear with more teeth. This allows for the movement of the moon through its phases to be much more precise (combined with other mechanisms and gears of course) and thus not require adjustment for such a long period of time. Truly the type of issue only your heirs, or heirs' heirs need concern themselves with.

The Athys Moon 2134 is available in 18k red or white gold in the traditional Daniel Roth watch case shape that you either love or don't. but don't knock it until you get one on your wrist. The moon phase disc is rendered with a more realistic image of the moon's surface while the the rest of the watch dial has the time, a subsidiary seconds dial, and the date. A really good looking and classic watch with a unique take on engineering the moon phase, one of the most desirable and popular complications in the horological enthusiast community.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

deLaCour Liberata watch: That Much Harder To Tell The Time


Oh how I appreciate novelty in luxury watches, but this one could almost be described as a prank for those who actually want any comfort in telling the time. The deLaCour Liberata watch has a watch that is actually free floating in the watch case. It is not a new watch line, but I felt it worth discussing. The independent smaller case simply moves and spins around freely being called upon do to so by gravity. The result is a watch face that can be all over the place and in any direction. Thus you can't rely on 12 o'clock being in any regular orientation.

Why do this? Why not? deLaCour doesn't really care about taking over Timex - there are plenty of other watch makers out there who simply display the time without regard to being different. There is a big game in the watch world of "we are the first to do XXX." Though sometimes it feels like an answer to a question no one asked, or alternatively a solution to a problem that simply didn't exist. "I was just so bored being able to tell the time with ease." Look deeper and you'll find that my sentiments may be wrong. While not a luxury watch maker like deLaCour, Japanese company Tokyo Flash thrives off the release of oddly designed watches where deciphering the time is like doing a math problem. So perhaps my feelings on the matter are isolated and many watch consumers DO want these types of "novelties."

Unlike Tokyo Flash, deLaCour is a luxury Swiss watch maker - so the privilege of having such an avant garde watch comes at a much more substantial price. The watch is likely to be considered "unisex" (though mostly for women) and comes in several colors (including, but not limited to, white, yellow, red, and black). The case is in steel either polished or in the shown black PVD. There are about 6 carats of diamonds on the two bezels and in the center of the actual watch face. The case is water resistant to 100 meters. There is the issue of setting the time of course. The smaller case with the time has a quartz movement and is likely set via opening up the back of the main watch case and removing the smaller case that can be adjusted on the back of the watch. This also allows you to change the battery. There are various different dial styles as well. Want to up it a notch? The timepiece can be ordered with up to three smaller watch cases inside the overall case - for multiple timezones. Price is about $12,000 - $25,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Corum Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Black & Gold Watch

Corum Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Black & Gold Watch
A sure compromise between fancy and fun, the new Corum Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Black & Gold is a suave new character in the Admiral's Cup watch lineup. No, it isn't a radical new design in the Admiral's Cup line of timepieces, but rather another installment in Corum's ongoing quest to promote the Admiral's Cup collection as the premiere non-regatta timer yacht racing themed watch around! I am pretty sure it has succeeded in that endeavor.

The "44" in the Corum Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Black & Gold watch refers to the black PVD steel case's size of 44mm wide. The name of the watch is more or less "primarily descriptive" of the watch without much character in the title. The bezel is 18k rose gold, and so are the applications on the dial such as the hands and hour markers. The style is fittingly bold, but not necessarily more so than other Admiral's Cup timepieces. Inside the watch is Corum's calibre 753 automatic mechanical chronograph movement that has been Chronometer certified. The true black and gold version of the watch is limited to just 188 pieces while a brushed gray dial version (matched to a gray PVD case) is also available and limited to just 128 pieces. There is no way of knowing why there is a difference in availability. It is also hard to tell if there is lume applied to the dial of the watch. It could be the "dark" style lume - but I hope it is there. Sport watches such as this suffer a loss of credibility without having any type of darkness visibility. If not, at least plenty of other Corum Admiral's Cup watches have lume applied to the large stylish hands. The Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Black & Gold watch should be available soon.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Avant-Garde Watch Maker Romain Jerome Loses Avant-Garde CEO Yvan Arpa

yvan arpaHe has been everything from controversial to overly confident, but he made watch company Romain Jerome what it is today - successful. Abruptly, the board of directors at Romain Jerome ousted the now former CEO Yvan Arpa a few days ago. Officially it might have been that Yvan Arpa "resigned" but local voices agree on the fact that he was forced out. He, as well as four members of his management team are out - a total purging of previous control. A new CEO and management team has already been assigned. It is unclear why this occurred, expect for the fact that Mr. Arpa has a reputation for being "difficult to control" and highly "characterful" in his management style. Who else could come up with some of the ideas that Yvan had, such as the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA and Moon Dust DNA watch lines.

Prior to Arpa's time at Romain Jerome, the brand was extremely "niche" with a couple of golf themed watches with highly limited marketability. In my opinion. Yvan Arpa came in, shook things up, and eventually caused Romain Jerome to be backed-up with millions of dollars in orders from interested buyers willing to wait long periods of time for their watches to be made. As unwise as the Romain Jerome board's action seem, it is easy to get overly confident once things are good. It is possible for them to survive another decade at least on the ideas and image that Arpa created. They might feel as though he is no longer needed, but without him their ability to innovate may be limited. In the meantime they can imagine new ways to spin the brand. This has happened before with other brands, but once the creative juice is gone, so is the passion, and the character of the watches quickly begins to fade. Although I was not a fan of every Romain Jerome watch, I liked enough of their novel timepiece creations to now lament Mr. Arpa's passing - to hopefully greener pastures. If we are lucky he will be snatched up by another watch brand or start something fresh (the economic "crisis" permitting).

Via WorldTempus (in French).

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tag Heuer Monaco LS Chronograph Calibre 12 Watch



From concept to reality - sort of. I got excited seeing some of the Tag Heuer Monaco watch concepts shown at Baselworld the last few years. Instead of any of those watches really making it to production (with some exceptions) we have this Monaco LS Chronograph Calibre 12 watch model, that is like the "eventual production model of a concept car" that itself was too impracticable for production. Alas, this Monaco LS Chronograph Calibre 12 watch is "based" on the Tag Heuer Monaco 360 concept watch.

Underneath the designer dial, is a basic array of subdial discs, save for the dial and hand for the chronograph hours located at 6 o'clock. For the most part the dial is just a series of visual tricks to make it look more complicated than it really is. For example, take the "linear" seconds counter located at 3 o'clock. It looks like a horizontally laid out linear gauge, but in reality it is just the appearance of that with a disc bearing a spiral red line underneath that looks like it travels across the linear dial. The same goes for the chic looking counters at 12 and 9 o'clock - nothing that special and more gimmicky.

Powering the watch is Dubois Depraz automatic mechanical chronograph movement inside of the 40.5mm wide steel case that is WR to 100 meters. Style of course refers to the "futuristic" concept Monaco watches that some of you have lusted for, but for me this Monaco LS Chronograph watch is simply not that satisfying a consolation prize to those interesting concepts which are not available. Not a bad watch, but certainly underwhelming once the initial novelty of the style wears off.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Pita Oceana Will Be 'Bargain' Platinum Metal Watch


Pita Barcelona is a cool and funky independent Spanish watch makers who will soon release their long anticipated Oceana diver's watch in a limited edition of just 80 pieces. The watch will be highly customizable, with over 2,300 possible combinations. One can choose from many types of parts and features, including straps, dials, hands, crystal materiel, bezel, and of course case metal. While the limited edition of just 80 may seem low, Pita's statement of "2009 limited edition" might mean that more of the desirable watches will be made in the future. The watches will be available in various styles of steel, gold, and even in platinum. Prices start at about 3,200 euros, and top out at around 17,000 euros for the 950 platinum case version. This is an incredible deal for a platinum watch that usually go for before $50,000 and way up. I cannot definitively say that this is the cheapest platinum watch out there, but is is one of the lowest prices - and as part of an incredible overall timepiece.

Many innovations went into the Pita Oceana's design. Notable is the crownless design and water resistance to 5000 meters. The case is 43mm wide and 18mm thick. The watch movement is based on a heavily modified ETA 2671 automatic, while the overall watch has two patents in the design. The small star-shaped seconds hand is also a "chromatic depth meter." Something about the colors changing as you dive deeper. A very cool looking watch that is totally unique from a couple of master watch makers in Barcelona. Check out the online Ocean customization options here.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Rolex Watch Manufacture To Literally Grow Larger


Watch making behemoth Rolex is like the Google of the watch world. Why? Because they are powerful and ubiquitous with an industry watching them that both love and hate them. Love them for their timeless designs and high level of quality, and hate them for often epitomizing watch snobbery and sequestering themselves from the rest of the watch industry. Rolex's ongoing theme is to be totally vertically integrated - meaning they will (or already do) make each component of their watches themselves.

A few weeks from now will see the beginning of a massive new construction project whereby Rolex is adding a huge new complex to the manufacture site in Bienne, Switzerland. The goal of the project is to contain the entire watch movement making process to one building. Most of the parts distribution and much of the manufacturing process is totally automated by robotics. Other than just focusing on trivial matters like making watches, the new structure will include features for people too. There will be a waste water treatment plant, underground parking, a restaurant, and cafeterias. The new physical arm of Montres Rolex is scheduled to be completed in 2012. The meaning of all this is that Rolex is totally un-alarmed by the "crisis" that is effecting watch sales, and is using what is likely times of cheaper construction and labor to focus on the brand's future when they will be one step closer to further domination of the mainstream luxury watch world.

Via Europa Star.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

IWC 45.5mm Big Ingenieur Chronograph Watch

iwc 45.5mm big ingenieur chronograph
I got a nice chance to play with these larger IWC Ingeniuer watches recently and boy do they make an impact. The mechanical prowess you feel from handing the case is intense, even though they have "basic" calibre 89360 automatic flyback chronograph movements inside (love that the top subdial is used for minutes AND hours). I jest because the movement is manufacture made by IWC and is quite impressive. At 45.5mm wide (and 14.5mm tall), the steel, 18k rose gold, or platinum cases are hefty and well sculpted. Attached to the case are alligator straps. The Big IWC Ingeniuer that can be obtained in platinum has got to be one of the heaviest watches out there without a bracelet, and I love it. The dials are really easy to ready and the action of the chronograph pushers is pleasing. There are some sharper edges on the back of the case, but it is not a big deal really.

With a "scientific watch" heritage, the Ingenieur watch line has come a long way with the pictured style being the dominant look of the watch line today. It really isn't for every man, but enough people are going to love the technical, though luxurious look and personality of the watch. It can easily be dressed up or down, and is the perfect type of watch that you can rely on for decades, or generations for that matter (with proper service). The slate gray or white colored dials have nice contrasting subdials and enough decoration to make you feel good about your aggressively styled luxury Swiss watch. Available now.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Robb Report Loves The F.P. Journe Répétion Souveraine Watch


Readers of the Robb Report know that they like luxury watches and tend to include more mainstream and independent luxury brands in their frequent timepiece discussions. As such, in Robb Report's recent "Best of the Best" awards for 2009, they have selected a number of products and services that together make up the ultimate items for the luxury lifestyle. In the category of "Men's Watches" there were five "Best of the Best" winners including this F.P. Journe Répétion Souveraine watch. F.P. Journe certainly falls in the independent category of watch makers in comparison to other winners which include brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre and Vacheron Constantin (each part of the Richemont Group). Other winning brands included Patek Philippe and De Benthune.

The Répétion Souveraine watch is unique as being an extremely thin minute repeater watch - with the manually wound movement being about 4mm thick. The watch includes this minute repeater complication as well as the time with subsidiary seconds and a power reserve indicator - all on a very typically styled F.P. Journe watch dial. The level of finish and subtle decoration is what collectors and enthusiasts come to expect from the brand the relishes in its French style while being made in Switzerland. The whole watch is about 8mm thick, which is really a triumph for any sonnerie type of watch requiring space for the gongs and hammers inside of the movement. This winning "Best of the Best" watch goes for about $165,000.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

deLaCour Birepetition Watch

deLacour Birepetition Watch
Watch maker deLaCour never fails to release something interesting. I can't always speak as to the practicality of the watches, but they are always fun to check out. For example, in this Birepetition watch, the moonphase indicator include a "shooting star" that occasionally shoots though the view. This beautiful and highly complex movement was part of a venture with Christophe Claret, one of the only people who is able to conceive and deliver on movements like this. So what does the watch do? There are two time zones, and each time has its own minute repeater complication - operated by a level on each side of the watch. This is the first watch that I know of to have such a double minute repeater chiming mechanism. There is also a skeletonized big date, the time zone hours are on retrograde scales and share the same large minute hand. Then there is the moon phase that I discussed earlier with its whimsical shooting star complication.

How do you feel about the honeycomb pattern on the skeletonized dial/movement? I think it is pretty interesting. Alludes to the complexity of what is inside, just like a bee hive. It is also a clever surfacing technique that hasn't been done much. The watch is large across and in gold with all the luxury fixings you could ask for. Click to read more to see a video of the deLaCour Birepetition watch in action.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Tag Heuer Carrera Black MOP Watch For Japan Only

tag heuer carrera black mother of pearl watch
Japan gets a lot of special watches that we never see here - though these are usually made by Japanese watch makers. Once In a while you get Japan only watches from Swiss makers such as Tag Heuer, and I wonder why Tag Heuer thinks no one else would want one. This special Carrera watch with a black mother of pearl dial is a perfect example. Not only is the watch a handsome, but more decorated rendition of the classic Carrera watch look, but it is simply enough to be appreciated by more markets. Notice that the dial is all black mother of pearl with a slightly matte black disc as part of the hour marker ring. The look is superb and something different from Tag Heuer - that to my knowledge has never utilized any type of mother of pearl on a man's watch.

Aside from this dial difference, the limited edition Tag Heuer Carrera Black features the same 44mm wide steel case and Tag Heuer Calibre 16 automatic chronograph movement as the rest of the modern Carerra watches. I've always loved bracelet of this watch that has mirrored certain Omega watch bracelets and features satin and polished steel finishes. Eventually Tag Heuer will upgrade the aluminum bezel (they look great but can be easy to scratch). Although Japan, like other Asian countries, is known to prefer smaller watches, I enjoy seeing the popularity of a 44mm wide model just as this there. 600 of these black mother of pearl Carrera watches will be available - in Japan only starting in July.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Watch Set Safe

Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica safe
I recently spoke about how the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica Grand Sonnerie watch and set (the most complex wrist watch in the world that comes with two other watches) was going to arrive in a safe as the presentation box. Well here is what that safe is going to look like, and there will be only 30 of these made. Each safe will be specially made by the German luxury safe company Doettling. Trust me that this is not even the most impressive watch safe that they have done. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica set safe will be made to look like a travel chest, but don't expect to move the 1,800 pound, six foot tall safe around with you easily.

Inside the safe is a watch lover's dream. Well, if you only own a handful of watches that is, and they are all happy being around Jaeger-LeCoultre branding. The innards of the case don't let you forget who "inspired" this horological refuge. The three watches in the Hybris Mechanica collection are prominently displayed in lit cubby holes, while eight watch winders flank the exhibit. The rest of the safe is reserved for other things, but you'll have to include them in between all the books and observation equipment that Jaeger-LeCoultre throws in the mix. Look at the pictures in the gallery and you'll notice various magnifying glasses as well as tools for your watch, plus other items likely hidden about.

The whole experience is pretty impressive for the select few who not only can afford the this ultimate trio of complex wristwatches, including the Hybris Mechanica Grande Sonnerie (26 complications with a total of 55 complications for all three watches), but who place their orders now and can think of a suitable place in [one of] their homes for heavyweight safe to "live." The Jaeger-LeCoultre Hyrbis Mechanica watch set will cost you between $2.5 - $3 million depending on the exchange rate. The first of the 30 sets will be delivered in the fall of 2010 with the final orders being finished in 2014.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com

Chaumet Dandy Unique Timepiece For Only Watch 2009

chaumet dandy only watch 2009
More news from the Only Watch 2009 unique watch auction. While there are many unique watches that will be available I make it my mission to mention what I think are the best. Here is a "dandy" watch from French Chaumet. I really believe they need to re-think the title of this watch. No fellow man that I know would want to invest in a watch that is known as the "Dandy." Not even a dandy man. That might have worked 200 years ago. I have a feeling Chaumet does very poorly with this watch in Italy where machismo is the predominant style for watches. Despite the odd nomenclature, the watch is a great looking timepiece. Chaumet has taken the Dandy watch case and created a unique looking jumping hour complication with a subsidiary seconds dial all shaped nicely into the case. There is a "racing stripe" that goes down the middle side of the case and into the case as well. It is an interesting design cue and well played.

The watch is in solid 18k rose gold, as are the hands and hour markers on the dial that has a sunray pattern and is in black lacquer. The case is 40mm wide and has a Bovet style crown placed in the top of the case (there is a black onyx cabochon crystal in the crown as well). The watch has a Chaumet CP-12V-III automatic mechanical movement. Although it is a fashionable and unique watch, I like the design a lot a find it comfortable to ready. Too bad there will only be one of these watch available, ever. If you have your heart set on it, plan on being at Only Watch 2009 in Monaco on September 24th.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

Watchband Maker Goes Into Receivership

speidel watch companyMore bad news from the hard hit watch/jewelry world. This time it's jewelry manufacturer and watchband seller Speidel. The Rhode-Island-based company filed for receivership last week and all the employees have been laid off . The company's assets will be put up for the sale in the next 90 days. JCK Online reports that the company's largest creditor, Sovereign Bank, is owed $4.4 million.

Speidel also owns the watch repair company Providence Watch Hospital which is now also in receivership. The Providence Journal reports that people who have left items for repair will be notified about how to claim their pieces. The company employed seven watchmakers and five technicians who serviced 55,000 timepieces a year.

The Pope Gets A Free Erhard Junghans Watch


The German-born Pope gets a German-born watch. Recently, watch company Erhard Junghans gifted Pope Benedict XVI a shiny new Tempus Automatic watch with an enamel dial and a fine automatic mechanical movement. The watch company has been around since 1861, which is apparently the year that the previous Pope was born (I jest).

The watch was presented to the Pope by a German politician, Volker Kauder, who presides over the electoral district where Erhard Junghans is located in the Black Forest region in Germany. The watch was specially engraved to commemorate Kauder's visit to the Vatican and was described as a personal gift to Pope Benedict XVI. It is unclear whether the gift is directly from Kauder himself or as part of a joint gift from Erhard Junghans as well. The watch brand is more or less unknown in the US, and is a higher-end brand from the more basic named "Junghans" brand in Germany.

The gifted timepiece is the stainless steel version of the Tempus Automatic watch that is 42mm wide with an automatic mechanical movement inside and a display caseback. The white enamel dial has black lacquer Roman numerals on the dial and is priced at about 1,900 euros. The watch is also available with a black colored dial, and also in a limited edition 18k rose gold model that goes for about 7,800 euros. It will be seen whether or not the Pope will wear the new watch, but if so, will make for excellent PR for the watch brand.

Ariel Adams publishes the luxury watch review site aBlogtoRead.com.

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