Grgich Hill Estates celebrated their 30th anniversary on July 4 with a unique production, their first biodynamically produced wine, a limited-production 2006 Sauvignon Blanc called Essence. An article in Wines and Vines reports that Grgich Hills owns 366 acres, which are all certified organic and farmed biodynamically. The Grgich Hills website has a great slideshow and FAQ on biodynamics. The process, which was derived from lectures by Rudolf Steiner is more than just going organic,although both practices use compost. Biodynamics treats the soils with a variety of preparations to bring microbial life and nutrients to the soil. The preparations seem a bit wacky at first and include cow manure packed in a cow how, a stag's bladder stuffed with yarrow flowers and stinging nettle tea. The planting, harvesting and other tasks are timed in harmony with the earth's natural cycles. How biodynamics works is a bit of a mystery but more and more wineries in the U.S. and in Europe are finding that it makes for better wines.

The grapes for the Essence wine were hand-harvested at night Sept. 13-22 so they arrived at the winery cool and intact and were aged for seven months in large oak casks. The wine has notes of citrus and kiwi with the classic Sauvignon Blanc minerality. It sells for around $40 and 374 cases were produced.